woensdag 30 januari 2008

Henry or Men del Norte?

Two names of lanchas, ferrys, which go all the way to Iquitos.
The port of Pucallpa is something, when you ve never experienced a jungle port b4.
It s sooooooooooo romantic, people dragging bananas on their heads, loads of them...
mudd everywhere, remember we hit the rainy season, odd looking people,drunks, but with a stick I can KO them without a doubt, so they re harmless, I guess....
Peke pekes and geen pepekes, going and coming, and poor trees, masses of them, poor tress, cut into pieces to create paper, furniture, or whatever...What is wrong with us people, exploiting Nature as we do?Stand still, please, buy second hand, it looks much nicer anyhow, or don t buy at all, we don t need all the things we have...
But the port, aaaaaaaaaaaaah so romantic.
I have an even harder time understanding hte people from Iquitos, this ain t spanish no more...it is jungle talk, it goes very slowly very quietly and with a lot of slang.

On zoos

Visited twice a zoo here, and though I don t seem to get the point of keeping animals in captivity, though I read about the tiger in the Pacific, and though I try to believe me, I wish that people would better be off eaving animals in plain freedom and experience freedom themselves for once, if that is possible, everyone is captive in this life isn t it...
I must say the Parque Natural in Pucallpa surprised me pleasantly, after the dingy environment of Tingo Maria s UNAS, univerçt they claim too be...,it was a relief. The animals hadn t been rescued though, whereas in Tingo they are, I wonder what truth lies in that...
From illegal trade, put into pequeños jaulas, little as can be, saved, for the better??????
Anyway what s the solution? No more animal trade, change of government, and no more burocracía, as is the case in Peru, so that more funds go where they ought to go, to the people and poor animals. They never asked for anything did they?
Maybe schools should also start on working with more social and conservation programms, instead of filling heads with brainwashed images till they explode.
I got a lick from the tapir, sachavaca a it is locally known, it ate my hair and licked my fingers and I got him out of his restrained enclosure, making him wander about the ducks, and turtles and geese food ...He got a massage too, and I m in love...with the sachavaca.
I petted a strange looking peruvian dog, bold, almost japanese...but they assured me it was Peruvian.
Shaking hands with curious monkeys, and trying to get a glimpse of one shy one, less terrible than the monkey I pètted in Tingo, which had a definitely depressed look on its face...
Busy leafcutter ants, giant bumblebees nd aggressive mosquitoes followed me around.

All that in a lush tropical forest...with rainstorms, fried fish and fried green bananas, my staple food for now.

dinsdag 29 januari 2008

Pucallpa finally

It is pouring down, the rain...
Incredible it seems to follow me around.But as a woman told me
A ti no te gusta la lluvia, y quieres vivir- she s right, if we want to live we need rain!!!!
So I am starting my last month here in Peru, soon I ll be o n the plane towards Europe again
I hope to find Sagar there, in one piece.Gosh it is so hard to be without news at all, am I crazy or what
The road to Pucallpa was georgeous, as we left the mountains behind, the land became flatter and soon the mountains had dissapeared and made way for jungle, farmlands and more jungle
I chose a good day, since the heat was bearable, the rain kept us cool
I treated myself on a comfortable car journey, and quicker than the bus...at least that was the intention,...
But unfortunately, yes you guess it right, the car broke down, again the gear, and we were lucky to pass the last hills at minimum speed,1 km an hour, maybe i d have been quicker walking...
I kept on being surprised by the huge bees nests, I took for spider monkeys and let my imagination become my reality.
The hotels in Pucallpa are noisy and the rooms small, nothing very inspiring to make a painting...which I d hoped for
Ah Inch Allah
Again

zondag 27 januari 2008

Curiousity for the selva grows

Tingo Maria is only half as hot as Pucallpa
But I am acclimatizing allright after 4 months of high sierra.
The people look and speak differently there too, can t wait to get there....
Tomorrow or tuesday?I hope I ll have a safe trip, since attacks are common, and banditry often in the news. Aaaaaah when are people gonna get to THE MEANING OF THIS LIFE?

La bella durmiente

Tingo Maria Nacional Park, with the sleeping beauty made out of the hills surrounding it. The Peruvians see anything in rocks, mountains,rivers, vivid imagination....
aaaaaaaaaaaaah felicidad... The plants and trees are just impressive here, the blue morpho fladders around me to announce a new birth and the crickets just make my favourite sound

La cueva de las lechuzas y no de las lechugas (kind of loud owl, salad).
oscura y gritona como the birds from A Hitchkock, I d like to spend some time in a cave, but I don t think this one would be on my favourite list, although the sight is impressive and the sound even more....
el encanto de la naturaleza

la pobreza is around the corner, I wonder if these people would be happy with my North Face jacket that I try to get rid off, since I forgot to donate it in the high sierra, I was too cold to think clearly, now I am too hot...or too drunk could be....
pero la felicidad

el litro de caipirinha and the pollo canga, delicious cheap chicken on the bbq served with tacachu, a local speciality, of banana and oil, engordando?Every woman has got a belly here and it looks marvellous.Reminds me of the Pacific Islands, gosh if I were a man....
El intenet funciona malisimo, but fortunately they were so honest to charge me less, unlike the Krishna s whom got delicious food, but allways try to get away with a sol more.

People don t earn a lot here, 500 soles a month, can u imagine?
Not much left over after the paying of the rent the eatingand the drinking,a very Peruvian habit..

I feel homesick,for the first time during my trip and very much Sagarsick
I guess it will be an early night .....
BIEHIEHIEHIEHOEHOEJHHOEJHOEEOHEOUEEJHEO

zaterdag 26 januari 2008

Tingo Maria

Tingo Maria is one shocking change from the Sierra, I had to get my bones heated up and decided to go there asap. ANd here I am. With a cold, but without the rheumatic aches I d experienced in Junin.I decide to blend in and take it sllllooooooooooooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly.
Hotel Madera Verde
Centro de rescate
Lazy hazy afternoons
La Lluvia llego
y que lluvia
intuition works in overdrive, finally
UNAS
Not such a nice place
Poor monkey looking away, lost jaguar,
people are stupid

donderdag 24 januari 2008

Junin

Puna in her splendour
Lake Junin
Hostal Leo,
the cold which makes my bones hurt
the cold make me flee
to Tingo Maria
direct with autos rapidos
result I have a cold in the heat

zaterdag 19 januari 2008

Dinner with an Angel

Walking around in Molinos a small village not far from Huancayo, enjoying the women who gather to wash their clothes in the river, being told of animals inhabiting the mountains
And having seen the million faces in them too, I was making my way to Cochas, a gourd carving centre of some uniqueness, when a car full of people stopped, a guy got out and ran away and invited me to join them.He seemed to be the Alcalde, the maire, of Tambo, and was doing his tour of the villages, Angel Unchupaico Canchumani.
Very charming, he invited me to have dinner with them, tv ccrew included. I had my first bit of CUY, it was dead anyway, and it didn t taste like anything. So IT SURELY IS GOIN TO BE MY LAST.

vrijdag 18 januari 2008

Puna, mi hermosa, querida, diosa....

Poem for Puna

Puna hermosa
bajo una luna nublada
ya pareces durmida

Puna linda
tus secretos parecen interminables
me haces soñar sueños inolvidables

Puna mia
te extraño cuando vuelvo
a mi país lejano

Puna
permanece siempre al lado mio
en la mañana deja ver tu lado frio
en la tarde, cuando empieza a hacer viento,
te veo tan feliz, tan tranquila
y en la alta noche
todavia estas viva


Y PUEDO SEGUIR MAS

Huancayo


Cementerio de Umutu con lindos cantos
Torre Torre, Daniel, Pedro y amigos

San Jeronimo,

Ingenio,

Concepcion

Mito, lindissimo Juan

Boattrain trip




Between Huancavelica and Huancayo




Magnificent movements in the Andes by train, recommended


No comment




*Somos Alienados*


We are alienated, said Silo...his eyes reddish from the pain and from the beer...
Negritos festival in Huancavelica.
A catholic fiesta where everyone flocks to dance and see the procession of the niño perdido, the lost black child Jesus...which came from Chincha, which has a large amount of African descendants... from slavery times....again.....
The Apus, mountain Gods, just stand still and watch as the crowd gets drunker and drunker...
I wonder why it is that Catholicism has had and still has so much impact on these mountain people, whom had and some still do luckily so much to adore in Nature, Pachamama,Pachatata,...
And some tell me it isn t hidden beneath the Catholic festivals, and some say it is...
All I know is that to me, being of animist belief myself, the whole situation is awkward.

Religion, I ll never get it, especially not the ones not paying attention to Nature.

It was a sad fiesta for me, and all the festivals I ll visit from now on, must be of Andean origin, at their purest. Let s hope the one in Matahuasi coming sunday, will be one of those...

Imaginandome Cuzco

Ya No me acuerdo....
Mariesonsol con muchos sol
El zorlobo

zondag 13 januari 2008

Negritos festival in Huancavelica

The Ormeno bus took me throught the high Andes, I got all romantic by gazing at the litlle bits of Puna in the dark, and reached Huancavelica at 5 am, no rested but satisfied. On the road I talked to Idaliza, a girl of 10 and her friends who were on a trip from concrete Lima.They were thrilled by talking to a gringa, and as our bus got its motor started, she ran up the bus and asked me for my email. I hope she ll write me.It is strange what nature does with children, and it is even stranger we can t let them have it...
In Huanca, the hotels were fully booked, there seemed to be something going on...My gringa charm just made it for a room and a tv and hot water, which I all consider luxury items, but which would seem to be so welcome the following day.
The Negritos festival beating hard, I stayed pegged to my bed, and that s where I m heading now again. Dreams are so precious to me....

vrijdag 11 januari 2008

An old Peugeot and chevrolets,and me being born a capricorn....

Old american cars cruising from Nazca to Ica
It feels odd, but magical.

The rain make the women on the street hold on to their hearts...I wonder why, I do the same. Maybe it s the fear of the heart getting caught by the rhytmic sounds of drops falling unto it, and being wild...At least, that s what I think. It s hot, tropical and rainy grey weather, what better to do on these days then ...But Sagar isn t here, so I ll have to restrain myself.Bcuz I was born a capricorn...

Cherokee

So up on the Mirador I awed at the lines, which are a mystery to everyone, and which never ever dissapear, the torandos just clean them and after they passed they look as if they were freshly made. I saw the tree, the hands and the cut off tail of the lizard
I was happy that I didn t take the avionetta, and didn t give in to my cravong of seeing more lines, but also polluting the universe a bit more...
Amazed by this sight, I decided to walk to the cerrito a little further along the Pan Amrticana, with some Neil Young tunes mending my soul with this magnificent landscape. I fell completely fulfilled, walking like a hobo, and thought I had credit cards, and water, everything to start myself with in getting lost in the middle of nowhere....Only the raindrops were falling, and started to fall even harder as I git closer to the cerrito.
Completely soaked, but blissfull I put out my thumb, and an old Cherokee stopped for me. THe man, a Robert Mitchum type, copper miner, came from lovely Andahuallyas and had been living in hot Nazca for 15 years now.

Oh I forgot to tell you about Magali, a crazy but gorgeous woman, whom came out of the cabinet of the dr when I was taking pictures from across the street, and seeing me she thought I d like it if she modelled for me
We got talkin´and she invited me to her home, she only thought I was much younger, and a good fit for her son. No luck. But as she was going to Lima for a few days, to stock on for her handicrafts, and as I am going to Ica and Huancavelica, another loooooooooooooooooooooomg busride, our caminos separated....Too bad, she was really fun, and I felt like being in another era.....
Strange Nazca, it gets to you...

donderdag 10 januari 2008

From being rained out to an old Cherokee


Finally, I reached NAZCA
The bus was mere luxury, compared to what I travelled in b4.But it was also doubly priced
We all got a meal ofchicken and rice, nothing to drink, to keep our urinary bladder quiet I believe...I didn t close one eye, allthough the seats were retractable, we had plenty of room and even got a semi cama effect, semi bed,...too much luxury isn t good for me.

It was a night filled with perfect timing, every time I peeped through the curtains some animal appeared or vanished in the dark....skunk like creatures, and vicuñas with their face so sweet, cacti and an ever changing landscape, from puna, aai mi querida, to volcanic nothingness, to desert dunes
Came into Nazca with 30 min of delay, very good to Peruvian standards... and sweating, bcuz it s hot...
Here in this strange edgy town, where all cars have some nostalgy they carry with them, people dress almost nudely, a shock after the layers of clothes in the sierra,I found some solace.
I can t put my finger on it what it is that I enjoy so much, is it the desert surrounding it, the light, the people, the heat,...I dunno, but I know I like it.
Oddly enough.

The cemetary had some pumpkinheaded babies, and some mummified rastas from the Chincha culture. They didn t practice the sacrifices of humans like the Incas did after them, and everyone was good enough to get mummified and a tomb after his death, to ensure afterlife.
A weird thing to see rastas, yeah with dreads to their feet or longer, in foetal position.They were the shamans. But graverobbers have emptied many of the graves contents, I would have done the same if I were to be poor in Peru...
Also visited a ceramic fabric and a gold extraction fabric, with a delightful entertainer...

Then romanticism came upon me as I discovered the Nazca lines, the tree, the hands and the tail of the lizzard, cut off of his body by the Pan Americana...
Rain, rain started to fall down, as I wondered in awe at these mysterious lines...in the EVERSOBEAUTIFUL desert.......

maandag 7 januari 2008

Chocolat and high altitude

Not compatible¡
I ve been hit by a chocolate intoxication, just like Ann.After having lived without chocolate for 1 month, I thought it was time for a treat, since my hormones were for it asking kind of agressively. A womans blessing,you know...
So Sublime came my way and while I was eating it in a very civilised way I felt my stomach make a few saltos, and soon I was to stop a cab, afraid to have to vomit in an uncivilised manner in the middle of the Inca streets.I turned the window down, to get rid of my heatwaves, and got annoyed by the detour the cab was making, for the Inca streets had a huge hole in it, the rainy season in the Andes...
Just in time I reached Osiris, to lay down and then vomit in the appropriate way.
Now a few hours late, what stays is a tired feeling and an incapacity of taking the bus tonight....
Another day in El Cuzco....
But I still marvel at the tress up the mountains and think soon, very soon I might just be part of them and share the tranquility they bathe in... FINALLY
Tomorrow I wish...

woensdag 2 januari 2008

Busses drivin' backwards

Well well
Nazca...
Finally I hit the road, after two more weeks of hesitations, I m gettin' good at it...and after having Ann predictin' my future,I fell it was time to go on my way.
So brave as un oso hermoso, I woke up early early afer my birth night, and reached the busstation at 7 am, i thought I d have enough time to fetch a ticket.
Unfortunately, everything for the 8 am departure was sold out, so I smudged myself with a few hot chocolates and fresh bread in one of the few foodstands...
10 am was the next departure, and I sat in Huamanga bus, with a zillion passengers, not one gringo , I was happy.
The bus left with 1 hour 30 delay, but this is Peru...some things are the way they are.
I soon marvelled at the snowy peaks, the beautiful Apurimac department, and the puna, ahh my beloved puna. What it is that attracts me to vast deserts I dunno, I think the sense of freedom one feels being disturbed by nothing at all, not one tree, no rabbit, just a few stingy pune grasses a cold wind and some llamas, alpacas, and cowboys
I fell asleep, untill a commotion hit the bus, a Wari bus had fallen over, 2 deaths...it wouldn t be the last ones we saw...unfortunately
It turned out to be the bus I would have taken if I had had a ticket in the morning. Providence smiled upon me.
Knock on wood.
Sleepy again, my lucid dreamin got disturbed by the bus doing strange manoeuvres... driving backwards...
after hours of trying we finally got going in the right direction, but the drivers left the boot open, and all the material fell out. So we stopped again, and started the whole process over
A second time we went the right way and reached PampaMarca, and the bus died...
The first driver went to a village 1 hour 30 from there, and never came back, cell hones were of no use, cuz we were in the middle of nowhere... at a high altitude...
People were gettin impatient, and we went from anger to jokes to anger,...
So we decided to wait untill another bus, joking about what kind of bus it would be a cardboard one, with an old driver, would come and deliver us from our agony
but it never came
Stranded we were and stranded we would be for 12 hours
So when a Huamanga bus came the other direction I hoped on it, and went back to where I came from, Cuzco, oh no not again...Had an early New Years eve with delightful Peter, and lmarvelled at the stars, talked to Apus, the mountain gods and felt happy...

So now I m here,in Cuzco, I bumped into Rey, started to paint and moved 3 times, slept with a real tree, and nightmares of my beloved one started all over.

I wish I could interpret signs more adequately, that would be a real deliverance.Clear intuition, that s my wish.....